Garum
Garum is a type of thin Roman fish sauce, consisting of fermented whole fish . The flavor was essentially salty fish. Used interchangeably, garum’’ is sometmes called “liquamen”, which is specifically the brine, whereas “garum” can refer to the products of the garum manufacture in general. [1]
The process of making garum also created other Roman fish sauces, including allec[2]
, a cheaper version of garum, and Salsamentum, or whole salted fishes.
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Ancient sources
The main sources for descriptions of garum are from Apicus, from the agricultural series Geoponica
Making Garum
The ancient Roman process of making garum is markedly similar to the same process that is still being used to make fermented fish sauces in Southeast Asia.
Garum factories, "the only large-scale factory industry in the ancient world" [3]
where most often found near the sea to take advantage of the fishing industry, and to distance the factories' infamous stench of rotting fish.
Notable factories were located in southern Spain, and near the Black Sea.
To make the garum, small fish such as anchovies, or the Mediterranean fish referred to as atherinae were placed in a vessel, and allowed to ferment for a period of time usually uncovered and in the direct sunlight. The length of fermentation depended on the type of fish, and desired quality of the sauce, usually between one to three months. After which time, the resulting mixture would be strained at least once via a woven basket, thus separating the fish sauce, called alec, and the thin, clear liquid. This brine was the liquamen itself.
Major Types of Garum
Bithyri
A type of garum made by the people of Bithyi that was usually made from anchovies, mackerel, bonito fish, or allec, flour, salt, and sometimes wine. It was allowed to be fermented in the open for two to three months before consumption.
Garum castimoniarum
Garum that was prepared in accordance with Jewish dietary laws (i.e. Kosher).
Garum Scombi
A type of garum made from a mixture of mackerel, roe and blood.
Garum sociorum
The name of arguably the most famous of all garum types translates from the Latin as " garum of companions; illustrating its unique and costly preparation. The fish used to produce this sauce would have been drowned in even more garum during its fermentation, thus making the sauce doubly strong.
Haimation
According to the agricultural book Geoponica, the garum referred to as Haimation was among the very best. It was made from the innards of tuna with salt, and allowed to ferment for two months.
Other Types
If garum was needed immediately, the fish was boiled, and not allowed to ferment at all, but this type was considered very inferior to the ancients.
Modern substitutes
While not common, most modern versions of garum can be found most often in Asian markets, names including but not limited to nam pla in Thai, tuk trey in Cambodian, and nuoc nam or nuos-nam in Vietnamese. In modern day Italy, there is a variation of “garum” made called collata that is available.
When a fish sauce substitute cannot be found, either salt or a mixture of salt and anchovy heated in olive oil, and then mashed up can suffice. Researchers warn however that anchovies, or anchovy paste alone is not an appropriate substitute.
References
- Dalby, A. et al., The Classical Cookbook (J. Paul Getty Museum, 1996), ISBN 0-89236-394-0, pp. 19-22
- Faas, Patrick. Trans. by Whiteside, S., Around the Roman Table (Palgrave Macmillian 2003) ISBN 0-312-23958-0, pp. 142-146
- Ricotti, E., Dining As A Roman Emperor (L'Erma di Bretschneider 1995) ISBN 88-7062-901-5, pp. 11, 12
Footnotes
- ↑ The translator J.D. Vehling was of the opinion that liquamen was in fact a catch all term for broth or stock, and not necessarily a synonym for garum.
- ↑ Also known as hallec or alex
- ↑ Dalby, pp. 19
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